Alterations - Taking in a Men's Shirt

Fabric:  Vogue Fabrics
Pattern:  The Angela Wolf Pattern Collection

Flat Felled Seams are the typical in men's shirt, mostly for the durability and clean seam finish.  This seam is very easy when you start sewing from scratch, but altering a shirt can be a bit of a pain.  If you are altering a men's shirt and getting paid, you should ask the client if he wants you to finish the seam with a flat felled seam or simply serge and topstitch.  The client usually won't care, they are more concerned with price.  In this episode I will show you the easy way of taking in the side seams with a faux flat felled seam finish.

Steps:

• Try on the shirt and pin along the side seams to taper.
• From the inside of the shirt, chalk mark your pins.
• Remove pins.
• Rip out the original stitches underneath the armhole for about 3 inches.
• Rip out the hem for 3 inches to each side of chalk markings.
• Pin the inside seam, starting under the arm along the 3 inches that are open and then pin all the way to the hem (assuming you are tapering enough to avoid ripping out the rest of the side seam - if you are only tapering a little you will have to open the entire side seam).
• Stitch the side seams along your chalk markings.
• Trim a new 1/2" seam allowance.
• Serge or finish the edge of the seam allowance.
• Press.  (compare the seam allowance in the arm)
• Topstitch from the right side of the fabric.  Start from the original stitch line in the sleeve edge and continue on to the hem.
• Press the hem.
• Re-stitch the hem.

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