www.itsseweasytv.com
613-1 Print | Close [X]

Clutch – Vanessa Vargas Wilson
Vanessa Vargas Wilson creates a mini rounded clutch purse with all sorts of size options.

 

For More Information Visit:


www.brothersews.com

 



Rounded Clutch Purse – Vanessa Vargas Wilson
Designed by Vanessa Vargas Wilson (Crafty Gemini)
www.craftygemini.com

 

Materials & Supplies:
• 9” x 15” of outer fabric
• 9” x 15” of lining fabric
• 9” x 15” of medium weight double sided fusible interfacing {I use Pellon® Fuse-N-Shape}
•  2” x 9” strip of fabric for pocket binding
• 18” x 18” square of fabric for purse binding
• Two 8.5” x 11” sheets of cardstock for purse template
• Brother ScanNCut
• Rotary cutter + mat
• Clear quilting rulers
• Iron + ironing board
• Spray starch (optional)
• Fabric safe marking pen or marker
• One magnetic snap closure
• Pliers
• Seam ripper
• Pins
• Hand-sewing needle
• Coordinating thread
• Optional embellishments: buttons, appliques

613-1 Pattern (PDF)

 

  1. Create clutch purse templates using the Brother ScanNCut machine by cutting out 2 circles with an 8.25” diameter from 8.5” x 11” sheets of cardstock.  The circle is a pre-loaded shape on the machine. You will need two cardstock sheets, one for each circle template.
  2. Trim one of the circle templates down by measuring 3” in from top and cutting a straight line across the circle.  {Finished template will be a little taller than a semi-circle}
  3. Label the circle “Back” and the trimmed down (semi) circle “Front”.
  4. Sandwich interfacing between outer and lining fabric so right sides of fabrics are facing out and interfacing is touching the backside of each fabric. 
  5. Fuse ONLY the outer fabric to the interfacing.  Leave the lining fabric underneath unfused for now.
  6. Lay templates on top of outer fabric and cut around making sure to cut through all 3 layers (outer fabric, interfacing and unfused lining fabric). Cut one “Front” and one “Back.”
  7. Separate lining fabric (should still be unfused but cut to size at this point) from sandwiches.
  8. On your “Front” piece, fold outer fabric/interfacing combo in half to find center, mark with fabric safe marking pen. From this point measure 1” down and mark.
  9. Attach the metal (male) part of the snap closure in the center of the point you just marked. Use seam ripper to carefully cut two slits in fabric and fold snap prongs on the interfacing side either out or in with pliers to secure.
  10. Now go back and fuse the lining fabric to the interfacing side of the “Front” to cover up the snap hardware. {optional- You can cut a small piece of batting and lay behind prongs before fusing lining fabric to it to reduce wearing}.
  11. Cut a strip of fabric (any grain will do) that measures 2” x 9”. Fold strip in half lengthwise and press. Open strip and fold outer edges in towards center fold and press. Then refold on initial center fold line and press to create a double folded binding.
  12. Sandwich the top straight edge of your “Front” piece inside your binding and top stitch in place to finish off that raw edge. Trim excess binding flush with bag sides.
  13. Fold “Front” in half to find bottom center and mark. Measure 2” to the right and left of the center mark and mark them.
  14. Lay “Front” with lining side up. Make a dart by pinching each side mark so the marks are right in the center of the dart. The dart should measure ½” in on each side from the fold and 1” in. Make sure the exposed dart is on the lining side of the “Front.” In other words, you should not see the dart’s seam allowance if you are looking at the outer fabric of the “Front.” Sew both darts making sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of stitch line.
  15. This is an optional step: Trim your darts to reduce bulk inside the bag. Use pinking shears or trim about ¼” away from stitch line and zigzag stitch to secure raw edges.
  16. Take “Back” piece and fuse lining fabric to interfacing. Lay it so the lining fabric is face up and fold in half to find bottom center. Repeat the same steps you did for the “Front” to create two darts on “Back” as well.
  17. Lay “Back” with lining side facing up and then “Front” on top of it with the outer fabric facing up. Pin around and using a 1/8” seam allowance stitch both pieces together around edge.
  18. Cut an 18” x 18” square of fabric for bias binding. Fold square of fabric on a diagonal and cut off about ¼” to get rid of the fold line. Now cut 2” wide strips along diagonal. Combine two strips by sewing the diagonal cut edges together to create one continuous bias strip. Fold in half lengthwise (with right side of fabric facing out)and press.
  19. Match raw edges of binding to raw edges of purse and stitch around using a ¼” seam allowance. With a hand-sewing needle and coordinating thread, hand stitch binding to back of purse with an invisible stitch.
  20. Fold top edge of purse flap in half to find center and mark. Measure down from that mark to figure out where you want to install the magnetic part of the snap closure. Install same as you did the first time.
  21. Cover up snap hardware on outside of purse with an embellishment. I use industrial strength craft glue and a large button to add my personal touch to the clutch purse.

Sewing Machine Featured in this Segment:
Brother Innov-ís NX2000 Laura Ashley® Limited Edition Sewing Machine

 

Brother

Please note that the instructions for this project are in PDF format and require Adobe Reader or a compatible viewer:

Adobe Acrobat reader can be downloaded for free at: 



Please Note: Some of the PDFs are large and can take time to download and display. Visitors with low bandwidth connections or older computers may wish to right click on the links and choose "Save Target As" to download the file directly to your system before viewing.

 

Host: Vanessa Vargas Wilson

Copyright © 2015 It's Sew Easy. All Rights Reserved.